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Author:	Lin [ Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:51 pm ]
Post subject:	Propagation by stem cuttings
I had posted this under "organic home brews" which may not have been the right forum, so I'm trying here. I will be moving from the DFW area to another part of Texas, and I have some plants I'd like to propagate from stem cuttings before I leave (even though I know they may not prosper in the sugar sand I'm moving to). I couldn't find info on what would make a good organic propagation medium - e.g. is perlite okay? Should I mix lava sand with perlite? Or just straight lava sand? Also, is there an organic rooting hormone available locally in DFW? I have read on willow water, but I don't have any willows handy... TIA. Lin

Author:	Tricky Grama [ Wed Apr 11, 2007 7:48 am ]
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I think it depends on what plants you want to take w/you & whether they are adaptable to the new area. You may have to amend your soil where ever you are going. I would take cuttings & wrap them in wet paper towels. Unless they will not be rooted right away. Then I have no idea how to keep them alive. Again, it depends on what type of plant. FLowers? Shrubs? If it's iris, for instance, you could dig & separate & plant in small plastic pots then transfer to your new garden. If you had HG's "TX Gardening the Natural Way", there's how to transplant or propagate many of the plants. Also, some of the plants have specific soil requirements. What specifically do you want to take w/you? Patty

Author:	khwoz [ Wed Apr 11, 2007 8:13 am ]
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CK this out http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=1120 Air layering might be an option also http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=1771

Author:	Lin [ Sat Apr 14, 2007 11:03 am ]
Post subject:
KHWOZ - thanks for the links! I had done a search on "Stem Cuttings" and didn't see this. I'll get a good organic potting mix for the cuttings, and will try to get the mist system in the greenhouse working. Patty - I have dug/am digging plants that I can take - I actually had a Witch Hazel that wasn't in the ground too long to dig out (I moved it in the winter and it's doing GREAT!), I had dug up some Lenten Roses, aspidistra, crinums, St. Joseph lilies, rain lilies - anything with a root ball small enough for me to manhandle. The ones I'm trying to get cuttings of are - a couple very nice viburnum that are understory plants (and too large for me to take); a couple of roses that I started from my grandmother that have great sentimental value; my Texas Pomegranate and aromatic sumac (or tri-leafed sumac, I can never remember which one). I also want to try to start a chinaberry (I love the smell this time of year!), my variegated elderberry, and some shrubs that were difficult for me to find or that I forgot the names of I have been adding organic matter (leaves, alfalfa hay, compost, rabbit manure) to the soil for the last year, so I'm hoping that I'll end up with something that support life in addition to dogwoods and azaleas. Thanks again! Lin

Author:	Tricky Grama [ Sun Apr 15, 2007 7:51 am ]
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Lin- I just re-looked at the March issue of 'The Dirt' & there's 2 plant propagation books listed! Patty

Author:	gsblake [ Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:40 am ]
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The Antique Rose Emporium offers this advice for rose cuttings on its website (and I've employed it with success): "Many of our customers have called requesting information on how to root their own Old Garden Roses. As a rose grower, we have at our disposal large greenhouses, automated mist systems, and trained personnel. As a result, we have fine tuned our rooting program. However, we can offer these general guidelines for the home gardener that we have found quite successful. Fall has proven to be the best time to take cuttings here in Texas, although we have had success with late spring cuttings. During the heat of the Texas summer most roses do not tend to grow actively. However they do flush in the Fall. Once the new growth has stiffened, we select a pencil-thick stem as our cutting. Growth that is too new has soft tissue that will wilt too quickly once cut. Cut the stem into lengths containing 2 to 3 leaflets each. The bottom cut should be just below a bud eye. The cuttings are stuck in a well drained potting soil (a styrofoam coffee cup with a pierced bottom works well as a pot). Then place a plastic bag (supported by straws to keep it off the cuttings) over the top as a canopy. Place in a warm area with lots of humidity and indirect sunlight. High humidity can be accomplished by misting periodically during the day for the first two weeks (a spray bottle works well). Your rose should root within three to six weeks, but some varieties are difficult, so be patient. Once rooted, the canopy can be removed and the light level increased, but watering must continue on a fairly consistent basis. With the root system established, the plant can be transplanted into the yard."

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