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Need Help Starting Out https://www.dirtdoctor.com/efl/dirtDoctor/need-help-starting-out-t3745.html |
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Author: | VARock [ Mon May 17, 2004 11:20 am ] |
Post subject: | Need Help Starting Out |
First of all, I live in N. Texas on 2.25 acres. I am going all organic, but the initial shock has me worried. I want to put down alfalfa pellets, but at 10lbs / 1,000 sq feet, it would cost about $1,200 for one application. I know there has to be other alternatives. Would it be better to use liquid molasses and liquid humate and spray the area? Would this approach be more cost effective and still provide the microbial nutrients? Maybe add a compost tea to the solution??? I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, VARock |
Author: | mycajah [ Mon May 17, 2004 4:41 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
First, get a soil sample or two. Check with the Natural Resourse Conservation Service and get a copy of the soil survey. What types of soil are on your place, and what kind of vegetation will those soils support? Then take stock of your situation. You may not need to treat your entire place. Do you have bare spots or large patches of Johnson Grass or other invasives? If you have large trees, I'd start with examining them closely. Start building your compost pile now! There may not be a need to spend money on soil admendments right away. |
Author: | jrosto [ Tue May 18, 2004 6:17 am ] |
Post subject: | |
This same question came up on this weekends radio show. HG recommended applications of molasses and humate as an inexpensive means of getting started on larger areas. I am working on 4+ acres. I applied CGM in the early Spring and am now applying molasses and EW Pro. |
Author: | VARock [ Thu May 20, 2004 2:07 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Thanks for the replies. One question for jrosto, what is EW pro? I tried a google search and couldn't find any information. I'm getting ready to purchase either a pull behind whirlybird spreader (175# hopper) or a 25 gal sprayer. I keep going back and forth as to which approach I should take. There are merits to owning both pieces, but it currently isn't in my yard budget. If I go totally liquid, will this suffice in the long run? By putting down compost tea, liquid molasses and humate can I keep the microbes and yard fed well enough? Thanks again! VARock |
Author: | Kathe Kitchens [ Thu May 20, 2004 11:40 pm ] |
Post subject: | Liquids |
Yes, you can definitely keep things running well with liquids. Start out with liquid molasses, liquid compost and a soil bio-innoculant like Earthworm or another to introduce a fresh, healthy population of soil microbes. Spreading horticultural molasses and other dry amendments is also good but the liquids are very cost effective. EW Pro is a commercial version of Earthworm soil bio-innoculant. Great stuff. Kathe |
Author: | Robert D Bard [ Fri May 21, 2004 3:03 am ] |
Post subject: | liquids |
Liquids are excellant - I am doing hay meadows to get organic hay this year, but I would put liquid humates without fail. You may not know what was on your land before you got it and if there were any chemicals. the humate will help detoxify besides building up the organic matter. It also has a lot of minerals that are available. Go to web site www.enviromateinc.com Randy has humates and combinations that are resonable in price and effective. You can find local dealer for their products. Robert D Bard |
Author: | Robert D Bard [ Wed May 26, 2004 1:24 am ] |
Post subject: | getting started |
I think it is pretty much waste of money and resources to do soil tests before you get started. You can assume in TX that there is very little humate in soil and there were toxic chemicals and fertilizers used. on your land. You don't need ph test as using lime is not necessary. ph will correct itself as you use compost, humates, organic fertilizers, etc. After a couple of years you can do a soil test with the company down in Edinborough - south TX. Don't bother with TX A & M as their results as suspect. If you can, liquids are the easiest and the cheapest to amend you land. Robert D Bard |
Author: | greenacres [ Sat May 29, 2004 7:32 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Just wanted to say that Captain Compost has some very helpful advice for making compost tea on this website --which would be a very sound economical way of helping you get started organically. Also, the site for the lab that Robert mentions is as follows: http://www.txplant-soillab.com/ Happy farming! - Susan |
Author: | Brad Watson [ Tue Jun 15, 2004 4:08 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Our liquid program has been very sucessful. Check it out and give us a call if you have any questions |
Author: | Dirtfarmgirl [ Sun Jun 27, 2004 12:56 pm ] |
Post subject: | Grow your fertiliser |
Hi VArock, Will alfalfa grow there? $80 gets 50 pounds of seed, enough to do the whole place. You can cut 2/3 and use the cutting to add fertility to the other third. Or what ever rotation you are planning. Perhaps think in strips. 10 feet wide of alfalfa, 5 feet wide of crop area,10 feet wide of alfalfa..etc. Mow and rake it where it needs to be. It's a great mulch too. I have planted 40 acres with a belly seeder.( Walk and crank!) It took two and a half days. On 2 acres you can use a sack and your good right arm and broadcast anything if needs be. A bottle of horse linament will put you right. LOL. Put money into the sprayer. It can be used to get water out to seedlings too. I looked at soil test costs, the number I need to do, and just bought a good test kit. Check out Gemplers. For hand tools Lehmans. Both have first rate goods. There is no value in tools that fail in the middle of a job. [/url] |
Author: | Robert D Bard [ Tue Jun 29, 2004 11:09 pm ] |
Post subject: | getting started |
I would not bother with alfalfa. I would use liquid hunate, liquid molasses because it it dirt cheap - $1.00 at feed store - called liquid feed for cows. You can also buy bugs in a jug - to get bacteria going, but don't put out without molasses or they will not be able to survive. If you don't have bacteria legumes will not germinate - alfalfa, clover, etc. See if you can rent sprayer - much cheaper that buying. Put stuff out now and then in the fall - after Labor day - plant rye grass and clover. They will grow like crazy and in the spring you can disc them in the soil surface and it acts like compost. Then plant summer grasses. Never plow land. It puts the areobic under the soil and the ansreobic on the top which messes up both and will destroy both. You need 10 to 15 lbs of clove seed and maybe 100 lbs of rye grass. Robert D Bard |
Author: | nina norman [ Fri Jul 16, 2004 3:34 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Robert - what is bugs in a jug and where can I find this? |
Author: | Robert D Bard [ Sun Jul 18, 2004 7:17 am ] |
Post subject: | starting out |
I just found a new type of bacteria that will even turn clorinadtehydrocarbons into organic product. Also found EM Effective Microorganisms. You can search with this and I think you can go to www.emtechnologynetwork.org These people know how to make bug for garden, farm, ranch and even for cleaning up wastes. Robert D Bard |
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