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 Post subject: Mold on Grass
PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2004 5:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 5:24 am
Posts: 8
Location: Stamford,CT
Everytime I watered my lawn in a specific area, I smelt an odor of mold/mildew. I found the spot and I can only conclude it was from sanding my deck of mold before killing it with bleach.
How can I get rid of it? Theres thinning grass there now.

I live in Stamford, CT 06902, low lying area, stays very wet.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 12:09 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:25 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Maryland zone 7
Hi Seedling,
If the conditions are right for mold, you will have it no matter what you put on it. It will return if you don't improve the drainage. You will probably either have to regrade the area or add soil to raise the level. See if any of the info here is helpful.

http://www.michaelholigan.com/Departmen ... %5Fid=5741

Newt

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When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2004 8:52 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 3:45 pm
Posts: 2884
Location: San Antonio,TEXAS
I disagree that the mold from your deck had anything to do with the mold on your turf. Just forget that notion. There are literally tens of thousands of mold species living in your soil. The fact that one of them seems to be dominating right now is because the balancing act among the microbes has gone awry.

First of all, if you are watering more often than once per week, you may expect this to be an ongoing problem. Low lying areas often accumulate water causing a boggy area. The soggy soil prevents the penetration of oxygen into the soil and lots of soil microbes die out. This allows the disease microbes to dominate and then your grass thins out. What you need to do is restore the health of the soil and do it as deeply as practical.

By watering infrequently you will start to restore the very surface back to normal. But right now you have a disease to get rid of. The solution for that is ordinary corn meal applied at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Then back off on the watering. Eventually you want to water no more often than once per week during the hottest part of summer. This may require deep watering each time but the frequency needs to be less. When you start watering properly, the fungal balance will return to the soil and even low spots can start to drain again. You just have to have the right microbes at all levels of the soil. They can penetrate clay and restore drainage without you having to do anything special (other than watering, mowing, and fertilizing).

Good Luck!

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David Hall
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Dirt Doctor Lawns Forum


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 Post subject: Thank You
PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2004 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 5:24 am
Posts: 8
Location: Stamford,CT
Dchall_San_Antonio, Thank You! You seem to be the only helpful one. The others are either too lazy or just on here looking for answers.

You might find this shocking but I water my lawn everyday, sometimes 2 times a day! #1. Its not deep, maybe the top 1 inch of the soil. #2. It is extremely hot and dry here in the summer and grass truns brown quickly. I've noticed my grass is greener then where I dont water.

I will try that oatmeal..I'm wondering if Home Depot has it or did you mean supermarket oatmeal?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2004 6:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:25 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Maryland zone 7
Hi Seedling,
Sorry you feel that I'm just looking for answers or just too lazy. Maybe my answer wasn't your solution, but at least I tried.

Newt

_________________
When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.


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