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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 1:29 pm 
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If the well is connected, use it.

I use Sears' best hose connected to an impact sprinkler. I only water when, where, and for as long as the grass needs it.

Automatic sprinklers have a big drawback in my opinion. They don't work on watering when the grass needs it. They water according the the clock. For example if you set your sprinkler to water every Monday morning at 8 am, what happens when it is raining on Monday morning? You water anyway and it wastes the water.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 5:29 pm 
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David,

We are also planning on installing a sprinkler system. It is the only way that we can water at the ideal time of day & not leave the water running too long, etc.

I realize it is not the perfect solution, but for some of us it is a way to use less water and use it more effeciently. My understanding is that some systems have a way to detect if it has rained or is raining so that they will not go on. And they should be monitored regularly for making necessary adjustments (seasonally at the absolute minimum).

From what I have read at A&M's site, above ground sprinklers are supposed to be best for lawn irrigation while soakers are best for landscaping & tree beds, but I suspect that (like so many gardening issues) opinions vary and solutions require individual customization. :wink:

Have mercy! I'd love to give our yard the ideal personal touch, but I'm lucky just to get it done - the ideal is probably beyond our reach until our children grow older &/or we retire! I think most homeowners have the same struggle.

I would be curious to know the answer to the post-er's question as I believe most of us would like to get as CLOSE to the ideal form of irrigation as we practically can incorporate into our lifestyles. :)

Graceland

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 Post subject: watering
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 6:08 pm 
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Location: Weatherford,TX
Per Dchall, I would also use the well. As far as using an automated sprinkler system; if it is set up correctly by area & plants, you use it manually when needed, it is great! If you put it on auto, you will likely kill or harm plants & grass due to the lack of or too much water. More than likely you will water too much especially on the trees. Also, I would not use soaker hoses to water plants since you will not know how much water each area is getting. Soakers are known to leak at some areas and clog at others. Good Luck!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2003 5:04 pm 
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Brad,
Sounds to me that you're dead set on having a system so you don't have to drag out the hoses and sprinklers. If so, go for it. Post about A&M recomendations is correct.

How long has the well been shut down?
I recomend that you have a well service company check it out and send in a water sample for testing. You don't want to bring up some toxics and put it on your lawn. Also, if well water has a high iron content you may need a filter so your lawn, sidewalks, etc. don't look like rust.

If you elect to use hoses; I use the stand alone sprinkler timers that attach to the hose bib. That way I don't have to remember to shut things off and I get to control when to water. Ok, Ok...I,m cheap and lazy. :roll:

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2003 7:51 am 
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I lived for many years in the California desert. The low humidity made watering any time after 6:00 in the morning pretty much a waste of money. The high cost of water made it pretty important to design a very efficient watering system. Soaker hoses are not a good idea. They are inefficient and hard to maintain. Lawn size will determine the types of sprinkler heads you want to use. For very large areas, impact sprinklers are very effective. Smaller lawns are better served by pop up roters or spray heads. Modern quality sprinklers can be adjusted for control of water flow and area covered. I would recommend purchasing the highest quality sprinklers you can afford to minimize maintenance issues later. Solid brass is better than plastic with brass heads which is better than solid plastic. Prior to digging your trenches, call to get your electrical, gas, sewer and water lines marked so you dont have any unexpected surprises :wink: Prior to laying your pipe, add a 1/2" layer of soft sand in the trenches. Make sure you flush your system well prior to final installation of the heads.

For ornamentals, install shrubbery spray heads or drips depending on the type of plants you are watering. We needed to water our fruit trees which were planted in an otherwise undeveloped lot. Bubblers (basically very high flow adjustable drips) worked very well for this application. For the ornamentals along the lot (oleanders and salt ceder), we used grey water in a trench.

The sprinkler manufacturers have pretty good web sites to help with design and istallation. Rainbird is an example. You may also want to do a search for Xeriscape and Xerigation for water conservation ideas for your system.

I probably raised more questions than answers with this post, but I hope it helps.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2003 8:51 am 
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I forgot to mention rain sensors. There are two basic styles of rain sensor. The first is basically a cup with electrical probes. You set the probes to the desired height, and when the cup fills to that height your sprinkler control system shuts off until the water evaporates. The second type is a sponge that expands when wet. When the sponge expands, electrical contacts are closed and the sprinkler system is shut off until the sponge dries out.

There are also soil moisture content sensors that will shut off your sprinkler control system when the moisture content of the soil reaches a certain level.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2003 2:31 pm 
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Location: Saginaw (NW Fort Worth), Texas
I have an optional watering system that we have been considering for our new house. Perhaps some of you gardening experts can take a look and tell me what you think. I found it at http://www.accurain.com/ and I think this might be a better system for us instead of paying the 1800 bucks for the system the home builder wants to put in.

Christina


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 12:24 pm 
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Location: San Antonio,TEXAS
I have an underground sprinkler system in my yard. I have done several "modifications" to it in order to meet my needs and correct problems. First, make sure you have lots of Zones. This means do not just have the lawn as a zone. Unless, it is all in an identical environment (ie. open ground, no trees, full sun) I say this because if you have trees, they will shade the lawn and require less water for those areas. The more you zone the better control you have over the amount of water you put down. You can use Impact for the larger areas, pop-ups or rotary for smaller. Do not mix the sprinkler head types, if you do you will provide uneven watering. In the "flower beds" use adjustable spray heads on risers if you want, this gets the heads well above the vegetation if you have thick vegatation, if it is sparse, consider using drip nozzels to minimize evaporation. They can be used as part of the "underground" sprinkler system as long as they are zoned properly. I recommend you take a hard look at your yard, develop logical watering zones, decide what is the most effective and efficient means of applying the water, and then work on the design. It will take some time but if you do this correctly, you will have a low maintenance, high efficent method of applying water to your landscape. Include moisture sensors to eliminate watering during or just after rains or when not needed. Use the well water if possible just make sure you filter it for foreign particles (ie. sand) so it does not clog up, and do not just set it and forget it. Do not forget, watering is variable thing not the same day in, day out. Also, most "sprinkler" installers use "less expensive" pipe underground I personnally like schedule 40 it is thicker, you will not break it if you "accidently" hit it with a shovel. You can do the project your self the hardest thing is planning it. When you run the wires for the control heads, run them UNDER the pipe so you do not accidently cut one, use sand in the trenches, and RENT a Trencher (it saves time and back pain). HAVE your GAS, Electric, and Phone lines MARKED BEFORE you dig. Sorry for the long post and any mispelled words (I am doing this without the aid of my glasses that I have misplaced again)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 5:10 pm 
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Brad,

I found a system that's a new concept and worth a look.
Site is: http://www.accurain.com/

Simple installation and cost effective.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 5:11 pm 
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Brad,

I found a system that's a new concept and worth a look.
Site is: http://www.accurain.com/

Simple installation and cost effective.

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ZIP
[The Alamo City]


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